ASIA OVERLAND 2002
Leg 10: Central Asia

Our route and means of transportation

From Kashgar we entered Kyrgyzstan through legendary Torugart Pass. For this part of the trip you need to plan ahead, because this Chinese border is officially closed to foreigners, as the Chinese government considers it a secondary border, therefore opened only to local traffic. It's mandatory for you to have somebody pick you up at the Kyrgyz side of the border, otherwise Chinese guards won't let you cross.
To pass the border you can ask Caravan Café in Kashgar: they will be able to organize for you cars for both countries: a Chinese car will get you to the border, while a Kyrgyz car will be waiting for you there. That's how, once you pass all Chinese checkpoints along the way up to the Pass, you will get to border, where Chinese officers will already be aware of your arrival that day and will just check your identity and assist to the "exchange" of passengers between the car drivers. It looks like an hostage exchange, so to speak. The Kyrgyz driver will help you to pass the Kyrgyz border, which is here controlled by Russian military troops.
Warning: there actually is a bus from Kashgar to Bishkek, going through Torugart Pass, but tourists are not allowed to use it. At the Chinese border you will be thrown back.

From Kashgar to Bishkek we've gone by car + driver. There is no other means for this route. We've stopped in the Tash Rabat valley and at Song Kol lake. This route is about 950 km long, almost entirely on unpaved road, and it takes about three days.
From Bishkek, we went by car + driver to Ala Archa and also to Almaty, Kazakhstan. There is no train between the two capitals, although there is a railway. The road from Bishkek to Ala Archa is about 60 km long (to and fro). Between Bishkek and Almaty it's 240 km long.
From Almaty to Shymkent by train: 860 km in 14 hours and 10 minutes.
From Shymkent to Tashkent by taxi (you need to change car at the border) in 130 km.
From Tashkent to Samarqand by car+driver. The shortest road is 290 km long and passes through Kazakhstan for a short part. The car driver will allow you to pass without another visa at both borders. In total, the road between Kashgar and Samarqand along this route is 2.530 km long.

Note: leaving from Kashgar and going to Samarqand, a more direct alternative is to enter Kyrgyzstan through not-so-busy Irkeshtan Pass and going down through Fergana Valley. Once you get to Osh, you go toward Dushambe, Tajikistan, along famous and spectacular Pamir road. From Dushambe you can go directly to Samarqand.
At the time of our travel this route was not so certain for us. In fact, going through Irkeshtan Pass was more complicated than going through Torugart Pass and it wasn't easy to organize. Moreover, the Pamir road goes through an area at the border with Afghanistan where there used to be some fire fights between Tajik troops and fighters at the Taliban side. The only alternative was to skip this entire part of the Pamir road flying with Tajik helicopters, which, I admit, requires a strong-hearted person… Then, from Dushambe to Samarqand there was no regular transportation and we could have had some problems crossing the border with Uzbekistan.
It's a good idea to obtain some information ahead, if you want to choose this alternative. Anyway, we know about people who went this way at the time of our trip.

Season

From August 29th 2002 to September 12th 2002.

Countries covered

Xinjiang (China), Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan.

Lodging and overnight

In a yurt at Shepherd's Life camps in Tash Rabat and at Song Kol lake. It's a great experience, that allows you to share your tent with local people who give you hospitality in the wonderful area of Tian Shan mountains for a few dollars. In this area there is no electricity and no running water except the one of small torrents. It's a good idea to bring torches, candels and some disinfecting products.
Silk Road Lodge in Bishkek, a beautiful new hotel built by British people in the town center.
Kaezzhol Hotel in Almaty: anonymous but cheap and centrally located.
Wagon lit on the Almaty-Shymkent train.
Orzu Hotel in Tashkent: cheap and centrally located. It's been our visas' sponsor.

Visa (rules for Italian citizens)

Xinjiang: it's China, so you should see the rules on Leg 4.

Kyrgyzstan: we've obtained our visa at Kyrgyzstan embassy in Beijing. We've been asked an invitation letter and 100$ each (!). We've obtained ours through the Kyrgyz company of the company network where Emanuela works. Since 2003 it looks like the invitation letter is not required any longer.

Kazakhstan: we've obtained our visa at Kazakhstan embassy in Delhi. In 2002 an invitation letter was mandatory. We've obtained ours through the Kazakh company of the company network where Emanuela works. That's how we've gotten a business visa with a two-month validity. The alternative is to get a sponsorship letter from some tourist agency in Kazakhstan. You can just look up on the Internet. You will probably be asked to spend at least one night in some hotel that the agency deals with: the hotel will write the invitation letter for you. Note: in Kazakhstan it's still mandatory to register at the police (OVIR) within 72 hours of your entry in the country.

Uzbekistan: we've obtained our visa at Uzbekstan embassy in Bishkek. We've been asked an invitation letter, that we've gotten from Orzu Hotel in Tashkent, contacted through the Internet. We've stayed at the hotel for our entire stay in Tashkent. If you want to apply for your visa in Bishkek, we advise you to read our travel log in the corresponding section, where you will find the entire procedure explained.

Not to miss and not to go for

Going up Torugart Pass road is an unforgettable and adventuresome experience. Panoramas are quite extraordinary, at least as much as the ones you find along Karakoram Highway. Don't miss it.
Tash Rabat and Song Kol count among the most beautiful experiences in our lives. If you're heading to Kyrgyzstan, don't miss a few days with nomads of Shepherd's Life organization.
If you're in Bishkek don't miss a dinner at Adriatico Paradise restaurant, which belongs to the Italian Consul. You'll be eating divinely - and not on Central Asia standards, but on Italian standards. We never advise Italian restaurants abroad, but this one really deserves a visit. Plus, considering the average diet you will be following in the area, you won't regret it.
Also, if you are in Bishkek, you shouldn't miss a day trip to Ala Archa, the ski area close to the capital.
You can entirely skip Almaty unless you're interested in stepping into Kazakhstan.
In Tashkent you should take a look at the market and the old town.