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2003
September 27th, 2003: HOLIDAY IN CAMBODIA, by Carlo
 

I believe that travelling is often a good occasion for reflecting. I never thought about a travel as an occasion of holiday - better, I never perfectly related the concept of "holiday" with the idea of emptying my head.

I mostly travel during my holidays because it's the only time that I can dedicate to myself - and I dedicate it travelling. Detaching from my everyday life is the antithesis to the equation holiday=rest=no thoughts.
Holidays are the moment to "think". Yes, I need to switch off my head, but only from the sleepiness of the continuous cycle wake up - work - home - bed - times7 - less the weekend.
On holiday I grow up, I observe, I learn, I gather new ideas. Often I get really tired physically, but if it's true that one should regenerate during holidays, then I need to come back as a different person. My objective is actually to come back slightly different from the way I was upon departure.

*****

Over two years have passed from our travel in Cambodia. It's one of those travels from which I've come back really different. Maybe not visibly, except some mosquito bite.

I believe that one can travel in Cambodia in several different ways. We haven't chosen extreme means of transportation neither had humanitarian purposes; we just traveled through a devastated country, populated by devastated people. It's a country of moving beauty and sticky melancholy, about the same way that the liquid humidity envelops the air and suffocates everything, even during the night.
I remember a famous Italian anchorman asking on TV "...why tourism in countries like Cambodia, when Italy has so many beautiful things; there must be some other purpose, surely sex tourism or easy drugs". Not being able to send him there by kicking his ass, and refusing by principle to write to newspapers, I changed channel.
My possible reason for going to Cambodia sounds like "I was in Saigon and had to go back to Bangkok; and I hate flying". That's it, even though somebody could ask: "Why tourism in Vietnam or Thailand, when Italy…"

We've crossed Cambodia as tourists, there's no other way to put it. We slept in good hotels and, here and there, have been accompanied by some local guide. Nothing adventuresome, nor exceptional, nothing that anybody else could do, at the condition of not being scared of travelling on the roof of a rusted and overloaded boat, barely afloat, running upstream on a South-East Asian river. But, I'm sure: none of the four of us has come out of the western border of Cambodia in the same way we have entered the eastern one.
It's been a holiday, yes. We were tired, dirty and crushed when it was over. Maybe we even felt like small Indiana Jones'. Why deny it?

I'm not sure if it's been for the subtle knowledge that, all around us, everywhere, invisibile and therefore even more alarming, we knew that thousands of landmines were hidden. At least, we'd read so. The truth is that we haven't seen, felt, nothing. As do-it-yourself tourists, but careful ones, the danger of mines wasn't on our travel program. But this hasn't unluckily eliminated the problem from our heads or our eyes. I'm being a provocateur when writing "unluckily".

It's because of all those people around you. It's because of the rehabilitation center in Phnom Penh. It's because, Indiana Jones or not, you know that they're there for real. And it's the sight of Japanese tourists in Angkor doesn't change things. Angkor is beautiful. For how snobbish you are and for how you can detest huge Japanese tourist groups, Angkor is beautiful. But Cambodia, for me, is this:


© Thomas White © Reuters

I haven't felt struck when I found this picture on www.virgilio.it. I haven't seen it as scandalous. For me this is, simply, a piece of Cambodia, a travel from which I haven't come back the same person as I was before. Does this picture let you be the same person as before seeing it?

That's why this has been a travel that I loved, that allowed me to make an unforgettable experience in an extraordinary country. Because I've been "lucky" enough to have my head wake up in front of real images like this one. Could I have asked for more from a holiday?

Carlo

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