TODAY
FEBRUARY 2004
JANUARY 2004
2003
November 7th, 2003: MURAT STREET, CENTRAL ASIA, by Carlo
 
October 16th 2003, 1:15 PM, I was coming out of my office for lunch break. My usual sandwich in the same sad bar in Murat street. I have lunch there every time I am at the headquarters, and I go there alone. One hour on my own. I carefully avoid the self-service restaurant and any other restaurants and pizzerias where my colleagues eat, although I would probably eat better and pay with company tickets. I actually avoid the world around me in general.

That’s always been my choice. I usually eat on my own. I read my newspaper and get out of the world, I “go away”. Often times I put my mobile’s tone on “silent”. For one hour, I don’t belong to the same world. I know that in some other part of Milan Emanuela does more or less the same thing, when she can. But she doesn’t read the newspaper, it’s probably a male habit.

Murat street is a really grey place. Maybe one of these days I will take a picture of it and show it to you on this website. Sometimes sitting in a bar in Murat street and eat a sandwich while reading a newspaper can be quite depressing. Sure enough, it’s a snobbish kind of depression. But the depression capacity of each of us is measured by our own every-day referral system. Mine revolves around Murat street.

October 16th 2003 was one of those days you typically see in Milan, especially in October. Veiled sky, but not too dark, grey day, but not too grey, maybe sunny, maybe not, maybe that’s fog up there, maybe it’s smog, maybe there’s a ray of sun, maybe not. If you get out of Milan for a few kilometers on a day like this, you will find yourself in a typical Po Plane atmosphere: veiled, but not too dark, grey, but not too grey, maybe sunny or maybe not, etc. Except, you will also start to feel melancholic. Which might be even more subtle than the snobbish depression you will feel in front of your salami and cheese sandwich eaten in the small bar of Murat street.

*****

I know it well. On October 16th 2002, at 1:15 PM, a train was bringing me to Milan Central Station, after crossing the kind of Po Plane I just described, in a Milan covered by a sky which was precisely identical to and colored of the exact same non-colors shade I’m seeing exactly 365 days later. On October 16th 2002, on Central Station track 12, our long adventure of Asia Overland 2002 was coming to an end.
Finally at home, that day I wrote on the last page of my travel log (which you will be reading in a few months – I am still transcribing Tibet in this moment…): "I’m looking around myself. Milan is grey. Is that the way I’m writing the word “end” to this story? I’d never thought about it in these months, I understand it only now. What do you write at the end of six months of travel?”
That’s the way my travel log ends - (maybe) some of you has already started to read it through the pages of Asia Overland 2002 in this web site. If this ruined your final surprise, I’m sorry about it.

Now, twelve months have passed since that day and I’ve had enough time to find an answer. Maybe I’ve found some stupid ones and they won’t lead anywhere.
I’ve felt I’ve left many things on that train, things I often miss and that I anxiously try to get back at night, before sleep comes to me. How far those things are already, so far back from me.

Indios say about the flow of time: future arrives at our shoulders, we don’t know it and we cannot see it arrive, while past runs away in front of us and we cannot see its face. Isn’t this extraordinary? Think about it: it’s the exact contrary of our interpretation of time, with the future in front of us, coming nearer, and the past at our shoulders, escaping from us. Still, the indio perception is much truer than ours. At least, for me, it’s quite clearer. Today I can see distinctly my recent past running away rapidly, and my remote past losing focus. I’m trying to grab it, also by copying my travel log on this website. But I already know it’s just an illusion.

I know close to nothing about my future. I know that there will be news and new adventures, and many many lunch time sandwiches in that sad bar of Murat street. I don’t know what I will answer to Zuz if he will ever ask me the answer to my question. I know that, if he will want to, I will let him read my logs, and maybe even the ones I wrote in Patagonia over ten years ago, and I will try to transmit him what no travel log page can show: my motivations, my imagination and curiosity which have been the necessary premise of those logs.
Most of all, I wish he will have the capacity of dreaming, further and further, higher and higher than the last target he just achieved. Of going to sleep every night with a thousand questions in mind and look for answers to each of them, and never surrendering until those answers will have arrived and, again, until they’ll have triggered new questions.

I believe there is only one way to convince myself that the sandwich I’m eating in Murat street is really good. Considering it an interval between a dream come true, running far in front of me, and a new, future dream, about to arrive at my shoulders. If you look at it carefully, by bus no. 83 Central Station is only ten minutes from Murat street, even during rush hours..

P.S. Who is Zuz? We’ll talk about him another time; he’s a good subject, talking about travels…

P.S. What you see up here is the first picture I’ve shot during Asia Overland, at Milan Central Station on May 3rd 2002, when we were about to step on our train to Frankfurt.
Carlo

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