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Since some years, the fourteen highest mountains of the world have
been becoming the stage of an absurd competition for setting records
and the core of a grotesque business on high altitudes. There you
can meet hundreds of professionals climbers from everywhere in the
world, as well as merely dummies, trekkers, rich and irresponsible
tourists, commercial expedition, most of them trying, climbing,
sometimes dieing either on Everest or on the "easiest"
8,000 meters peaks of Himalaya and Karakoram. You can find everything
around the 8000s, today.
That's not less than odd, not to say meaningless: for American and
British people, for example, there are no 8,000 meters peaks, but
some mountains around the world which are higher than 24,000 feet!
Everest is only a mountain higher than 29,000 feet ;-)
This said, I have only an answer for those one who always ask me
for knowing what's the dream of my life: climbing at least one of
the 8,000 meters peaks!
| |
|
Height |
First
ascent |
| EVEREST |
 |
8,850 m |
1953, E. Hillary (New Zealand),
T. Norgay (Nepal) |
| K2 |
|
8,611 m |
1954, L. Lacedelli, A. Compagnoni
(Italy) |
| KANGCHENJUNGA |
|
8,586 m |
1955, G. Band, J. Brown (UK) |
| LHOTSE |
 |
8,516 m |
1956, F. Luchsinger, E. Reiss
(Switzerland) |
| MAKALU |
 |
8,463 m |
1955, French expedition |
| CHO
OYU |
 |
8,201 m |
1954, H. Tichy, SJochler (Austria),
Pasang Dawa Lama (Nepal) |
| DHAULAGIRI |
|
8,167 m |
1960, E. Forrer, A. Schelbert,
M. Vaucher, H. Weber (Switzerland), K.
Diemberger (Austria) |
| MANASLU |
|
8,163 m |
1956, T. Imanishi (Japan), G.
Norbu (Nepal) |
| NANGA
PARBAT |
|
8,125 m |
1953, H.
Buhl (Austria) |
| ANNAPURNA
I |
|
8,091 m |
1950, M. Herzog, L. Lachenal
(France) |
| GASHERBRUM
I o HIDDEN PEAK |
|
8,068 m |
1958, P. Schoening, A. Kauffman
(U.S.A.) |
| BROAD
PEAK |
|
8,047 m |
1957, H.
Buhl, M. Schmuk, K.
Diemberger, F. Wintersteller (Austria) |
| SHISHA
PANGMA |
 |
8,046 m |
1964, Chinese expedition |
| GASHERBRUM
II |
|
8,035 m |
1956, S. Larch, H. Willenpart,
F. Moravec (Austria) |
 |
Our
pictures available |
These are the men who have succeeded in
climbing all of the fourteen 8,000 meters peaks. This list has been
last updated on 2009, August 1st.
| |
Year
of last summit and notes |
 |
Reinhold
Messner
Italy
(1944) |
1986, in 16 years and 3 months
(all climbed without supplementary oxygen)
Note:
he has climbed twice Everest, Nanga Parbat, G1 and G2, counting
18x8000 meters peaks as a total. He's been the first one in
climbing alone an 8000 meters peak (Nanga Parbat), concatenating
the ascents on a couple of the 8000s (G1 e G2), climbing the
8000s in alpine style, climbing the Everest without supplementary
oxygen, climbing alone the Everest, climbing 3x8000s in the
same year.
Anything else?... |
 |
Jerzy
Kukuczka
Poland
(1948-1989) |
1987, in 7 years and 11 months
Note:
He opened ten new routes on the 8000s and four first winter
ascents. Also, he climbed the Broad Peak twice. He died while
trying his second ascent to the Lhotse, climbing its legendary
South face. This ascent would have been his 16th 8,000 meters
peak and he'd have been the first man in climbing the hardest
wall of Himalaya, which at that time was still unclimbed. He
fell down when he was only less than 200 meters under the summit. |
 |
Erhard
Loretan
Switzerland
(1959) |
1995, in 13 years and 3 months
(all climbed without supplementary oxygen) |
 |
Carlos
Carsolio
Mexico
(1963) |
1996, in 10 years and 9 months |
 |
Krzysztof
Wielicki
Poland
(1959) |
1996, in 16 years and 6 months
Note:
he's the "king" of winter ascents. At present, after
completing the ascents of all the fourteen 8,000 meters peak,
he's trying to climb again all of them in winter. |
 |
Sergio
Martini
Italy
(1949) |
1998, in 16 years and 9 months
Note:
he has climbed Lhotse twice, so counting 15x8000 meters peaks
as a total. Some sources don't count his first ascent of Lhotse,
that's why he climbed it twice. According these ones, he completed
the ascent of the fourteen 8,000 meters peak only in 2000. See
also below, Fausto de Stefani. |
 |
Fausto
De Stefani
Italy
(1952) |
1998, in 24 years
Note:
many sources, above all American ones, don't count Fausto in
this list as they say he actually didn't reach the summit of
Lhotse. Fausto stopped his ascent to the Lhotse only some tens
of meters under the true summit as the wind was too strong and
he considered the job to be done. He was there with his mate
Sergio Martini, who came back on Lhotse a couple of years later
just to close the dispute. See above, Sergio Martini. |
 |
Juanito
Oiarzabal
Spain
(1956) |
1999, in 13 years and 11 months
(all climbed without supplementary oxygen)
Note:
he gets the record of ascents on 8,000 meters peaks, counting
22 total ascents. He has climbed 4 times Cho Oyu, and twice
Everest, K2, Makalu, G1 and G2. |
 |
Park Young
Seok
South Korea
(1962) |
2001, in 8 years and 2 months
Note:
between 1997 and 1998 he climbed six 8,000 meters peaks in 12
months, five of them in the same year (1997). He's the
only one out of this list, sharing the record with Reinhold
Messner, having climbed also the seven
summits. |
 |
Um Hong
Gil
South Korea
(1960) |
2001, in 12 years and 11 months
|
 |
Alberto
Inurrategui
Spain
(1968) |
2002, in 10 years and 7 months
(all climbed without supplementary oxygen)
|
 |
Han Wang
Yong
South Korea
(1966) |
2003, in 8 years and 9 months
|
 |
Vladislav
Terzyul
Ukraina
(1953-2004) |
2004, in 14 years?
Note:
he died on 2004, May 18, while descending from Makalu, which
would have been (or has been?) his 14th 8,000 meters
peak climbed. Many
sources accredit him this summit too, and I also support
this end of the story. |
 |
Ed Viesturs
U.S.A.
(1959) |
2005, in 15 years and 11 months
(all climbed without supplementary oxygen)
Note:
he has climbed Everest 6 times, in 1990, 1991, 1994, 1996, 1997
and 2004. Then, he counts for 19 ascents on 8,000 meters peaks. |
 |
Alan Hinkes
UK
(1954) |
2005, in 18 years |
 |
Silvio "Gnaro"
Mondinelli
Italy
(1958) |
2007, in 13 years and 4 months
(all climbed without supplementary oxygen) |
 |
Ivan Vallejo
Ecuador
(1959) |
2008, in 10 years and 8 months
(all climbed without supplementary oxygen)
Note: he climbed twice mount Everest |
 |
Denis Urubko
Kazakhstan
(1973)
|
2009, in 8 years and 9 months
(all climbed without supplementary oxygen)
Note: he climbed twice Broad Peak, Manaslu and Makalu, so counting for 17x8000. |
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